Elounda Island, Maria and the village of Kritsa

Sunday 10Th September 2006

Up at Christ on a bike o clock with a shitty hangover, to have a dribbly breakfast of coffee, juice and some discontinued Kellogg's cereal. There was no let up in the windy weather, and we were feeling hot and thirsty all the way to Rethymno, which is a mercifully short journey.

Bumped into lefteris in Rethymno, round by the hospital, perhaps touting for trade in an as yet uncharted accommodation market - it was nice he recognised us though. We camped at the fountain taverna in the centre and watered ourselves whilst trying to summon the energy to get excited about eating or continuing our journey. Luckily our seating was right out almost in the street so there was plenty to keep us occupied.

We left for the Lemon Tree around 12 but found it shut so, having relinquished a perfectly good seat slunk back to the fountain. Dinner was crap, as was our not being able to get a taxi at the harbour - you need to pre book it would seem. So we embarked on a sweaty high speed route march round the headland to the bus station, where the bus was late and almost impossible to find in the usual chaos.

We got to Iraklio quickly and decided to treat ourselves to a taxi from the bus station to Elounda - there is a sign board there so all prices are set, which might make them a smidgen more pricey but ensures a guaranteed cost at the end. The taxi driver had not heard of Elounda island, and looked suitably unimpressed as we drove over the wave washed causeway and dodged cavernous pot holes on the track to the Villas. Thankfully, all our travails were forgotten when we booked in. Ilias told us that unfortunately he only had a four bed apartment left, so would that be OK? Well, for the same price, the answer is clearly yes, and we were chuffed with what turned out to be probably the best accommodation of the holiday.

After unpacking and freshening up we walked into Elounda and received a warm welcome from mini, nano and regular Dimitri at his taverna, affording me the opportunity to enjoy the comfort of having the same meal as I always do when we visit - I realise this is contrary to the spirit of adventure but its so damn nice and costs very little. The only disappointment is that Hellas bar is no more, after some court case damages and noise complaint shenanigans that would not stand up to close scrutiny - either way, Gordon has lost his business and an English couple have taken over the bar.

In its place is Cafe Hellas, run by a nice couple who have unfortunately turned into an identikit of all the other Anglicised tourist haunts in Elounda, which means the only decent night is to be had at Mavrikano - subject to us actually ever getting there to confirm this.

The thought of braving the howling winds and sea spray over the causeway in the dark persuaded us to splash out on a ludicrously priced taxi back, but returning to a big apartment where we could comfortably relax and unwind was a perfect conclusin to the evening.

Monday 11th September 2006

I should mention in mitigation that the apartment does not have aircon - Ilias explained that the windy location on the kolithikia peninsula meant there was no need, but to be fair he does come from Greece, not a cold island on the edge of Europe. The only minor downside is that I went to sleep naked and on top of the covers,, then woke at 3am freezing and got under them, then could not get back to sleep til 5 and slept in til gone 9 and woke up in a heat induced stupor. But never mind , the views good.

Breakfast was a cup of tea with disconcerting sweet Greek milk, so we wandered off about 11 to to perhaps grab something better en route to see Maria at Kato Elounda. " Hilariously ", having reached Hiona pool bar for coffee, I realised that I had forgotten the photo;s that we had carefully brought with us for Maria, so had to run the 15 mins back to the EIV too fetch them.

We made slow progress into Elounda, once there slowed further by Chala visiting every shop to touch things and point out how nice everything was without buying it - I swear this is an exclusively female preoccupation.

Tooled up with water and glucose and essentials such as earrings, and after Chala had undertaken a somewhat upsetting conversation with work, we trudged up the steep hill to Pano and then Kato Elounda. Imagine our amusement then at arriving at the Kafenion at 13.00 - and finding it shut. Mind you, it was a good sign that the key was in the door, so Chala sat down on one of the arse breaker chairs and I went in search of life. Luckily Maria came out only a minute later, and recognised us, so we were sat down as she opened up and given obligatory salted tomatoes and cucumber with our drinks. She seemed to like the photographs we brought for her.

We were struggling by on our shared English and Greek between the three of us, and after a brief visit from the pongy man ( he has no other name, poor bloke, although this moniker is very apt ) it wasn't't long before Dimitri turned up in his truck. He remembered us from our last visit and we celebrated with more beer, some wine and of course, taking the all important photos.

We had to leave at 14.00 as we wanted a meal at Dimitri's again which was excellent - the best ( and strongest ) garlic bread I have ever tasted and good beer as well these days. Chala went back fro a kip and I went to Cafe Babel to find very little use for the tinterweb then went for an explore.

I ended up snoozing as well when I hot back and then spent a while dressing up ( as far as that's possible ) before we went out at 20.00, crucially remembering the torch. In Elounda we rang G+Y to find out if all was OK and were stunned to be met with their bombshell that it was too difficult for them to continue looking after the cats so could Marie take over for the last few days. I concede I was utterly speechless. Luckily Marie agreed, but this was a surprise that we could well have done without.

Chala of course had to have the job of ringing home to make this really awkward request, after which we didn't much feel like eating to be honest, but we persuaded ourselves that it was gone nine and the friendly atmosphere at Dimitri's would be an ideal antidote to our sense of bewildered disappointment. Tea was great after all, and we had chance for a quick goodbye before fighting our way blindly through a developing storm over the causeway back to Elounda Island Villas. It was just a shame we didn't get to the Pope's for a few brandys.

Tuesday 12th September 2006.

Up early to settle up and arrange to leave around dinner as we only had a short hop to our final destination of Kritsa. We seamed to be taking a while to come round but couldn't resist one last omelette and fabulous tzatziki in the var. We had a brief but pleasant cooking in the sun and wind on the patio before organizing a stodgy meaty English Breakfast to finish up our remaining food.

We stopped in at Hiona for a coffee before strolling along the waterfront to catch the 15.00 bus to Agios. Having arrived early we were surprised that a bus pulled up straight away - as is usual in Elounda its never quite clear where the bus is going or whether it is half an hour early or 90 minutes late but either way we jumped on and were in Agios ridiculously early. Laden with the rucksacks, Chala dumped me at the bus station whilst she went on a vital expedition to purchase some sun shorts or artichoke face quiche or other interminable lady nonsense.

As 16.30 approached we bought the tickets and then began the random exercise of guessing, sometimes ahead of the drivers themselves, which of the numerous empty buses was going to Kritsa. Luckily we know from experience that when travelling to the mountains, if in doubt, follow the old ladies. We did, and were soon on the bus and in Kritsa.

Argyro and the family were all pleased to see us and we were booked into room 10, which is a bit bigger than we had last time, and also has the luxury of a balcony, and close proximity to the communal fridge for my insulin. Having spruced up we decided to eat at Argyro's that evening, and had pork potatoes and tomatoes from the oven, with her home made red wine. Spot on.

Afterwards we waddled up the hill to catch up with friends, and visit the Castello to give out photographs. Kostas looks noticeably tired out, this tuned out to be because Maria was overdue, he was struggling whilst she was in hospital and he had only recently been ill himself. Still, we were welcomed warmly as always and had drinks and nibbles whilst catching up with Kostas and Dora.

After raki and Crepe Suzette which was fantastic, we had to call it a night as we were shattered, and there was the dread threat of a market day in Agios looming the next day, so we were in bed earlier, and a little more refreshed, than normal

Wednesday 13th September 2006.

Up early after a restless nights sleep - the balcony is a nice touch but it does rather increase the noise from the road, which appears to double as a racetrack, and the courtyard when Argyro has visitors. Still, this inconvenience is wiped out by the opportunity to have a delicious Argyro breakfast in the garden under the orange trees.

Despite noticeable lactose failings ( you almost have to beg for milk, not sure why ) breakfast filled us up nicely and we felt sate enough to wander around the village for a bit, ending up at " the trees ". This newly opened business proved to be a rather unsavoury introduction to the insular side of village life.

If you forgive my stereotype, it is unusual, especially in idyllic sunny places far away, to find a stressed Dutch couple, but the two people who had reopened the above named business were at their wits end. After 18 months of building and waiting for builders, equipment misplacement and damage, noise disputes, bureaucracy and vandalism, the couple were still awaiting final completion of the paperwork to run the whole business, whilst facing endless losses of trade, as well as insidious and covert damage to their property whilst the delays continued.

Whilst of course I only got to hear their side of the story, it did look very much like a couple of outsiders had come in and bought and resurrected a closed business, in a small village that relies very heavily for tourism to supply its collective livelihood. Whilst anyone who visits Crete for work or business should expect a certain soporific approach to getting most things done, its easy to see why the couple felt that everything that could be put in their way has been. The fact that there is hostility, even if only minor, suggests that further competition, especially from non Greeks, is not welcome.

I am only too aware that Britain is a hotbed of xenophobia and prejudice, eclipsed I suspect only by Spain's impressive racism, and its true that overt hostility exists to foreign business setting up in communities in in the UK, but as the guy pointed out, in the UK at least there is a framework of legally watertight or at best reliable guarantees, and laws against malpractice, that simply don;t seem to exist in Greece. It leaves a bitter taste in the mouth mostly because it so clearly demonstrates that you can't escape the us and them mentality, and perhaps also because it persuaded me that Chala's idyllic vision of life in some remote Cretan village ( running a business ) was so much more untenable and daunting than previously thought.

Putting this to the back of our minds we headed off into the bustling melee of the Agios market, affording Chala the opportunity to fondle, smell and coo at almost every item from, and generally tease the vendors of, the long line of stalls, a procedure that was over in the blink of a morning.

The market was as expected, heavy with mutton, and hilarious fake abidas and Nyke goods and Thoresby Market perfumes, but the bustle of the whole event is still enjoyable. To escape the chaotic crowds we had dinner at the roof garden restaurant, where I had had excellent Youvetsi, and the owner chatted to us having recognised us from the last visit. After lunch we went for a wander and a needless never ending jibber-argument about nothing, which lasted all the way until we got back onto the bus to Kritsa

Luckily, the pursuit of gifts that we ought to have already bought, calmed things down and led us to the art cafe. We stopped for a beer and ended up with a great meat platter , which when combined with the slick friendly service, the decor, and the ambiance prompted us to book a table for that night.

After Chala sloped off for zeds I went for my obligatory wander and wound up at Castello to fill this bugger in and have a soft drink. I took the rare opportunity whilst it was quiet to talk to Dora. Its stills surprising to think that she is 18, although that explanation did not help me to play down my comment that I thought she was 26. Still eh.

Kostas arrived and we caught up for a while but he was busy and I needed to get changed so I heded back and we left abut 7, after I had somehow contrived to break the toilet seat ( his is nothing to do with my extensive girth I should point out ).

The meal at the Art Cafe was in the upstairs room, and was fantastic. The veal stifado was like a thick braised steak and appeared to have been gently cooking all day. After we'd eaten we got to chat with the chef and the lady who had served us earlier. This was a marked contrast to our visit in May but I think that the lady is a hot rather than chilly climate person, and it was unseasonably cold when we were there.

We finished the night at Castello once again, where it was quiet and we had plenty of time to chat with Kostas, and meet someone who transpired to be Mr Dora. Kostas very kindly gave us a lift back, and were in bed knackered before we knew it.

Next time - Kritsa, Kroustas, village wine and getting home.......