Please find the next installment - we have now reached the south coast of Crete....
Sunday 3rd September 2006
Despite only 4 hours sleep and a stinking hangover we were up before 10 to pack, fail to manage breakfast, give the keys back and run ( not literally with full rucksacks ) up the hill to the bus station with minutes to spare. Despite roadworks the journey took less than the threatend 2 hours and we arrived before 14.00
We set off for the headland and soon spotted some of the lonely planet suggestions but whilst dithering ended up at Rooms Nikos, overlooking the sea ( via the street, and only in half the rooms ) but a pleasing 30 euro a night with a ceiling fan and fridge. There is also a provate patio area.
As delerium tremors set in we headed out to the " renowned " Caravello's restaurant, omly to be desperately unimpressed. My spaghetti with cheese was just and only that - half a kilo of cold spaghetto with 15 grammes of tasteless grated cheese. The food was the absolute minimum they could have bothered to do having taken my money and I made it clear I was unhappy, by having an amusing Englishman abroad strop. I am not proud of it, but they did take the piss big style, my case not helped by mistaking a colourful t shirted local woman for a waitress, standing up and glowering at the actual wautress so as to get the bill then storming off when we had waited for it to arive without touching the free dessert.
Anyhoo, after errands and exploration followed by a brief kip we were out Englishly early to be the first customers of the evening at Portofino on the waterfront. This is an excellent well run Italian restaurant with an emphasis on pizza, cooked in wood fired ovens. More than that, they show amazing foresight in opting to sell draught Pilsner Urqell which vied with my affections as the highlight of the evening, if only for the fact that I had not had good draught beer on any occasion so far. I have to confirm that the pizza's and level of service are excellent.
We sloped off to bed early feeling shattered, ready for tomorrows excursion.
more south coast notes soon. ( always assuming that logging on does not, as tonight, take me 45 minutes........ )
Yan
Tuesday 16 October 2007
Sunday 7 October 2007
wee beefys travels part 2
Please find the next part of my travel blog
Wednesday 30th August 2006
We were up early for breakfast in our "courtyard " surrounded by high rise hotel rooms and with outfall pipes running below our feet, taking it in turns to use the one bowl for our cornflakes. We walked through the mercifully shady streets to the Museum of Cretan Life, which cost 3 euro's each and essentially comprises a single room with cabinets displaying photo's and text - plus two dummies ( not us I hasten to add ). All too soon our lengthy 10 minute visit ( achieved by looking at exhibits twice ) was over and we headed to the Fortezza, up what seemed an unappetisingly steep path in searing heat.
We had an enjoyable traipse round the site, which is admirably hazardous in so many ways - no stupid health and safety fences or walls to help one aviod impaling oneself, falling down or over something or generally meeting a sticky end.
Well done to the Cretans for this.
After photo's and walking around the mainly shadeless ruins we headed back to the fountain for a cold beer before we visited the Lemon Tree for more excellent food abd real ale ( of sorts ). After briefly stopping off at the wardrobe we headed out intending to go to the beach. We were accosted by a tout asking us questions about the holiday and with an "amusing" pattter about how stereotypically obsessive/lazy/foul smelling/lustrous the French/German/Italian/etc.... whichever race of persons the raccconteur figured we would harbour irrational hatred of, were.
Enniz. at the end of this Alf Garnettl banter we were amzed ( ish ) to find that we had won something, the receipt of which merely involved getting a free taxi to the company resort for a tour. With nothing else planned we agreed, firmly deciding to not agree to anything no matter how nice it seemed or how much cheap champagne they gave us. The tour was predictably persuasive and was amusing mainly for the well drilled guide occasionally and obviously forgetting/losing interest in his sales patter.
We declined to sign up to resort holidays for ever but still " won " a free holiday ( as if ) and were taken back ( to the wrong accomodation ) in another free taxi. Still. it passed some time on.
Late on we headed to Venitio, a very nice and quite expensive restaurant with a keen interest in wine - but I talked to the waiter about beer anyway, which I am sure he appreciated. Following an earlier promise of trad Greek music we headed to a taverna nearby to be abjectly disappointed by some bazouki music that sounded like a ragu advert.
Thursssday 31st August 2006
Having got a taxi to the chaos of the bus station we were looking for a hassle free sojourn into Chania from the bus station. Having found our bearings we went on a long fruitless search for the tourist information office, following two conflicting sets of directions before, exhausted and pouring with sweat a chance look up into the sky enabled us to spot a sign the size of a beermat.
The toursit information staff helpfully informed us that they did not have a list of accomodation in Chania, but that ( as we already knew ) if we headed into the old town there was sure to be something there. Having found that taxi's do not go to the old town Chala's map reading got us to Efygina quite quickly. The room was quite small and basic except it had a 4 poster bed, jacquizzi and hairdyer - something never before spotted in Cretan accomodation.
We slept in the afternoon before stting out to find cafe Kriti, which took 20 minutes from about 2 minutes walk from where it is. We had a good value tasty meal at a taverna set back from the road bearby before venturing into cafe Kriti to spend 2 hours sat on the Cretan chairs of death and talking to an Australian lady called Kathy. The Music and atmosphere were brilliant however. and Kathy was a mine of useful information.
We slept like logs when we got back - or at least we would have, were it not for the fact that a raging storm blew in during the night highlighting a minor problem with the room - a helpul missing window pane.
Friday 0st September 2006
After a quick chat with the owners about the glass ( they had not replaced it owing to the hot weather ) we went for a further look around Chania including the Turkish Quarter. Dinner was fantastic, at a little Ouzeri round the corner with a blackboard menu outside. The food is basic but very tasty and sensibly priced. Chala went to get her hair cut so I walked out along the sea wall to the lightjhouse - or rather I tried to, but the other part of the wall leading to the lighthouse was closed so I headed disconsolately back.
We ate at the same place for our evening meal befor visiting Rudi;s Beerhouse and specnding quite unjustifiable amounts of cash on exellent beer ( including Franziskaner Dunkel and possibly also Schklenherla Weiss ). Bed late.
Saturday 2nd September 2006
After a liquid breakfast we once more visited the Turkish Quarter ( a photographers paradise ) and also visited the outdoor market, which appears to be half a mile of stalls, selling the same produce. Still, this keeps prices low and if we hadn't had the worlds most ineffective cooker we could have been well rewarded. Halfway round we stopped for a souvlaki cooked on a barbecue, by a bloke who when I asked to take his photograph, shooed away customers ( and his wfe ) befor sticking a pipe in his mouth to pose proudly for the shot. Despite the addition of tobacco the souvlaki was fantastic.
On the way back we also visited the indoor market ( and bought raki glasses ) and walked down the leather street ( or similar ) where I goit a wallet for 8 euro 50. When we returned to the studio I spent 1 hour 15 minutes boiling enough water to have a boiled egg ( is this some kond of record ? ) before we headed out around 19.00 and finally went in the Talos Bar.
The music playing was a good sign ( Manu Chao, Led Zep ) and we had hot raki with honey. beer and cocktails befor remembering around 21.00 that we also had to eat. After a quick but very tasty meal round the corner we returned to find the bar very busy - that is not difficult since the inside is about the size of a bus stop, but the tables outside were all full.
As the night wore on ( and the raki and cocktails and indeed numerous other unwise mixes of alcohol ) continued to flow, we were joined by some of the only other people I have ssen in all of Creet wearing black and having long hair. This of course could have meant nothing, they could all have simply liked David Hasselhof, ( god forbid ) but it turned out they liked Nick Cave and Godspeedyou black emperor. We chatted as best we could to Kristov, Yanni ( who went to Uni in the UK ) and Stelios, who had an incredible resemblence to a young Nick Cave. I feel sure that Chala's highlight was whem Stelios summed up the courage too tell her she was a very beautiful woman ( given that she has mentioned it 70 times since ) but I think our ill fated trip to Bororo was possibly better.
We left Talos with Yanni and a couple of his mates, and found a seat outside whilst a bizarre band that sounded slightly like Stereolab played in the tiny bar. We were all chatting happily away when a bloke turned up who Yanni did not like. Cue remonstrative shouting and cursing and other pandemonium as he went from being quite calm if a little pissed to irrationall in 3 seconds, befort storming off.
Our remaining companions seemed to think this was quite normal so we didn't feel bad about leaving them to pay the bill as we sloped off back. pastthe shrill tones of some catterwauling ld woman in Cafe Kriti , to get to bed around 4AM.
Next time - the South Coast.....
Wednesday 30th August 2006
We were up early for breakfast in our "courtyard " surrounded by high rise hotel rooms and with outfall pipes running below our feet, taking it in turns to use the one bowl for our cornflakes. We walked through the mercifully shady streets to the Museum of Cretan Life, which cost 3 euro's each and essentially comprises a single room with cabinets displaying photo's and text - plus two dummies ( not us I hasten to add ). All too soon our lengthy 10 minute visit ( achieved by looking at exhibits twice ) was over and we headed to the Fortezza, up what seemed an unappetisingly steep path in searing heat.
We had an enjoyable traipse round the site, which is admirably hazardous in so many ways - no stupid health and safety fences or walls to help one aviod impaling oneself, falling down or over something or generally meeting a sticky end.
Well done to the Cretans for this.
After photo's and walking around the mainly shadeless ruins we headed back to the fountain for a cold beer before we visited the Lemon Tree for more excellent food abd real ale ( of sorts ). After briefly stopping off at the wardrobe we headed out intending to go to the beach. We were accosted by a tout asking us questions about the holiday and with an "amusing" pattter about how stereotypically obsessive/lazy/foul smelling/lustrous the French/German/Italian/etc.... whichever race of persons the raccconteur figured we would harbour irrational hatred of, were.
Enniz. at the end of this Alf Garnettl banter we were amzed ( ish ) to find that we had won something, the receipt of which merely involved getting a free taxi to the company resort for a tour. With nothing else planned we agreed, firmly deciding to not agree to anything no matter how nice it seemed or how much cheap champagne they gave us. The tour was predictably persuasive and was amusing mainly for the well drilled guide occasionally and obviously forgetting/losing interest in his sales patter.
We declined to sign up to resort holidays for ever but still " won " a free holiday ( as if ) and were taken back ( to the wrong accomodation ) in another free taxi. Still. it passed some time on.
Late on we headed to Venitio, a very nice and quite expensive restaurant with a keen interest in wine - but I talked to the waiter about beer anyway, which I am sure he appreciated. Following an earlier promise of trad Greek music we headed to a taverna nearby to be abjectly disappointed by some bazouki music that sounded like a ragu advert.
Thursssday 31st August 2006
Having got a taxi to the chaos of the bus station we were looking for a hassle free sojourn into Chania from the bus station. Having found our bearings we went on a long fruitless search for the tourist information office, following two conflicting sets of directions before, exhausted and pouring with sweat a chance look up into the sky enabled us to spot a sign the size of a beermat.
The toursit information staff helpfully informed us that they did not have a list of accomodation in Chania, but that ( as we already knew ) if we headed into the old town there was sure to be something there. Having found that taxi's do not go to the old town Chala's map reading got us to Efygina quite quickly. The room was quite small and basic except it had a 4 poster bed, jacquizzi and hairdyer - something never before spotted in Cretan accomodation.
We slept in the afternoon before stting out to find cafe Kriti, which took 20 minutes from about 2 minutes walk from where it is. We had a good value tasty meal at a taverna set back from the road bearby before venturing into cafe Kriti to spend 2 hours sat on the Cretan chairs of death and talking to an Australian lady called Kathy. The Music and atmosphere were brilliant however. and Kathy was a mine of useful information.
We slept like logs when we got back - or at least we would have, were it not for the fact that a raging storm blew in during the night highlighting a minor problem with the room - a helpul missing window pane.
Friday 0st September 2006
After a quick chat with the owners about the glass ( they had not replaced it owing to the hot weather ) we went for a further look around Chania including the Turkish Quarter. Dinner was fantastic, at a little Ouzeri round the corner with a blackboard menu outside. The food is basic but very tasty and sensibly priced. Chala went to get her hair cut so I walked out along the sea wall to the lightjhouse - or rather I tried to, but the other part of the wall leading to the lighthouse was closed so I headed disconsolately back.
We ate at the same place for our evening meal befor visiting Rudi;s Beerhouse and specnding quite unjustifiable amounts of cash on exellent beer ( including Franziskaner Dunkel and possibly also Schklenherla Weiss ). Bed late.
Saturday 2nd September 2006
After a liquid breakfast we once more visited the Turkish Quarter ( a photographers paradise ) and also visited the outdoor market, which appears to be half a mile of stalls, selling the same produce. Still, this keeps prices low and if we hadn't had the worlds most ineffective cooker we could have been well rewarded. Halfway round we stopped for a souvlaki cooked on a barbecue, by a bloke who when I asked to take his photograph, shooed away customers ( and his wfe ) befor sticking a pipe in his mouth to pose proudly for the shot. Despite the addition of tobacco the souvlaki was fantastic.
On the way back we also visited the indoor market ( and bought raki glasses ) and walked down the leather street ( or similar ) where I goit a wallet for 8 euro 50. When we returned to the studio I spent 1 hour 15 minutes boiling enough water to have a boiled egg ( is this some kond of record ? ) before we headed out around 19.00 and finally went in the Talos Bar.
The music playing was a good sign ( Manu Chao, Led Zep ) and we had hot raki with honey. beer and cocktails befor remembering around 21.00 that we also had to eat. After a quick but very tasty meal round the corner we returned to find the bar very busy - that is not difficult since the inside is about the size of a bus stop, but the tables outside were all full.
As the night wore on ( and the raki and cocktails and indeed numerous other unwise mixes of alcohol ) continued to flow, we were joined by some of the only other people I have ssen in all of Creet wearing black and having long hair. This of course could have meant nothing, they could all have simply liked David Hasselhof, ( god forbid ) but it turned out they liked Nick Cave and Godspeedyou black emperor. We chatted as best we could to Kristov, Yanni ( who went to Uni in the UK ) and Stelios, who had an incredible resemblence to a young Nick Cave. I feel sure that Chala's highlight was whem Stelios summed up the courage too tell her she was a very beautiful woman ( given that she has mentioned it 70 times since ) but I think our ill fated trip to Bororo was possibly better.
We left Talos with Yanni and a couple of his mates, and found a seat outside whilst a bizarre band that sounded slightly like Stereolab played in the tiny bar. We were all chatting happily away when a bloke turned up who Yanni did not like. Cue remonstrative shouting and cursing and other pandemonium as he went from being quite calm if a little pissed to irrationall in 3 seconds, befort storming off.
Our remaining companions seemed to think this was quite normal so we didn't feel bad about leaving them to pay the bill as we sloped off back. pastthe shrill tones of some catterwauling ld woman in Cafe Kriti , to get to bed around 4AM.
Next time - the South Coast.....
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)